29th September 2006.
Drive eastwards out of Venice,
make a right turn through Slovenia and you're into a 15th
century world that has not yet begun to change.
The Istrian peninsula of Croatia
borders the Caspian sea and has a sub tropical, palm
tree populated environment. After 600 years of
Viennese influence, it would
be easy to assume that you were still in Italy. The restaurants
serve pasta, fish and pig on a stick
(over a blazing fire). But put
one foot onto a crosswalk and you just KNOW that this
is not Italy. All traffic instantly stops and waves
you across, if you happen to
be in any doubt about driver intentions.
Apart from one autoroute that
runs down the middle of the country, all other roads
are two lane blacktop in pretty good condition.
But these roads all run through
mountainous districts, never stop turning and there
always seems to be traffic coming the other way.
So that patience is essential
at all times. There are virtually no straight stretches
in the roads and the drop offs to valleys below are
intimidating. Even a twin turbo
Porsche is going to have lots of trouble passing anything
on these roads.
A first time auto enthusiast visitor
to Croatia, will spend a lot of time studying car badges, because up to
75% of the cars on
the road will be unfamiliar.
With petrol priced at $1.60 a litre ($7.00 a gallon),
most of the cars are small and diesel engined. Shown on the left
is a tiny
little Hyundai Getz diesel, something we're never likely to see
in North America - unless the price of fuel triples.
Hyundai has just set up a dealership network, so they are few
and far between so far. Toyota does not seem to have enjoyed
much market penetration either.
The most popular cars are Renaults, Peugeots, Citroens, VWs,
and SEATS.
The sight of a big Mercedes
or BMW will almost guarantee that the car is driven by
a German tourist.
The twisty roads have become
a popular playground for the sportbike enthusiasts from
all over Europe. Fleets of them, going flat out,
roar by one knee on the ground
and just having a whale of a good time.
In the 700 Kilometres we covered
in a week we never saw one police car or radar trap.
The best four wheel touring
device would be a Lotus Exige, the closest thing you
can find to a sport motorcycle.
A Corvette Z06 would be nothing
more than an embarrassment. Far too large and clumsy
for this type of terrain.
The funniest scene on the whole
trip was at a small village, high in the mountains, where
tourists had to park below and walk 400 meters
up to the lookout at the castle.
The streets are shiny cobblestones, polished by myriads
of feet over many centuries.
But there is a hotel inside
the castle walls, where guests have the privilege of
driving up the narrow streets and a
Chrysler Grand Caravan (diesel) tried to enter
the archway in front of the hotel.
Since the archway was built
in the 14th century and was designed to let two horses
pass, the Grand Caravan got stuck,
backed up, scratching the paint on both sides
and had to retreat down the hill, where a Renault Twingo
(which will go through the arch)
was despatched to pick up the luggage and the rueful Dutch driver.
Big cars just don't belong in
this environment and the Opel Astra wagon we rented
was just about as big as one would want.
You will note that Chrysler
does, in fact, produce a diesel minivan and could easily introduce
one in North America, if the opportunity
arose.
The food was great, the cost
very reasonable (far more so than in Italy next door) and
the people friendly and honest.
Now if I could have just had
a couple of days on my own in the hills with a MINI Cooper
S ..................
Ah, well you can't win 'em all,
can you?